Blog 4: Malta and Gozo, Malta

 You should know before reading this blog that if you aren’t prepared to spontaneously buy a plane ticket, you probably shouldn’t keep reading…

"Inhobbok Nanna"

Gozo, Malta

            Malta is by far the most beautiful, most culturally diverse, unique place I have ever visited. Being fortunate enough to spend four days in Malta, thanks to UCL’s “Reading Week” where no one actually reads, I was able to see some sights and really talk to the Maltese people about their country.  Malta has been at one time attack, invaded, or ruled by almost every country. You see knights everywhere because there were twenty-five knights from eight countries (eight points on the cross, one for each country) who protected Malta. Most recently, the Turks tried to invade Malta, but luckily Turkey is so far away that resources ran out leading to an inevitable retreat.

            That leads me to another point which is, for those of you who don’t know, Malta is in the Mediterranean Ocean just 93 km south of Sicily.  It has three main regions, from the north to the south: Gozo, Comino, and Malta, and only 400,000 people live in the main region of Malta. Many villages make up Malta and due to a Maltese law no building built before a certain year could be destroyed. Therefore, all the limestone buildings have the same structure with which they were originally built and even in the fields of grass one can see the rubble and left over structures of once standing buildings. Even along the seaside rode from Valletta, the capital, to St. Julian’s, the younger party area where we were staying, there are crumbling buildings. But beauty can be seen in the age of the shattered windows and discolored buildings.  Even in Gozo this is seen, and the farther from the center, the newer and more modern the buildings, but still holding the same architectural design.  All this limestone comes from the land in Malta itself, and we were lucky enough to stumble across one of the mines. 

Mosta Church

            Lastly, Malta is Catholic with 365 churches on its island, one for every year is the way to remember it. And although our personal driver, Antonella Grech Borg, told us that only 5% actually go to church, they still stand beautifully erected around the city.  The most famous one that is dome shaped and called Mosta Church. This church had an atomic bomb fall through its roof but the bomb never went off. To repair the dome 800 eggs were sold to pay for its reconstruction, an effort the city came together to do.

            Waking up at 3:00 am Rachel King and I went from the bus stop on Gower St. to meet our second bus at Marble Arch that would take us all the way out of London to Luton airport where we’d catch our flight to Malta. Surprisingly, we were both awake and energetic, especially upon our arrival to Malta where we were once again, because we were outside of London, greeted with sun!

City Gates of Valletta

            Riding the bus from the airport towards our hotel, we quickly learned that all buses end in Valletta (pronounced “Valetta), the capital of Malta. I quickly made the mistake of saying “Vallarta” as in “Puerto Vallarta” and looked like a complete foreigner. Luckily I can say that although as foreign as ever, I did not get pick pocketed this trip. Getting off our bus we decided to explore Valletta, not knowing it was the capital as we basically did not know anything about Malta. As we walked through the city gates we were greeted by a good amount of people strolling through the streets lined with what seemed like Christmas decorations. We continued through the streets and decided to follow the signs to some landmarks including: St. John’s Co-Cathedral, Grandmaster’s Palace, and the most Bibliotheca I’ve ever seen. After walking to the water we decided to lunch in the Plaza affront the Bibliotheca before hopping on another bus to go to our guesthouse The Highlander in Paceville (pronounced “Pachville”).

            A friend we had made on the bus had instructed us to walk along the waterfront so once settled in we decided to walk from St. Julian’s towards Sliema, the shopping area between St. Julian’s and the more southern city of Valletta. This is where Malta’s resemblance to, what I’ve seen in the movies, Italy seemed to meet our eye. The island has many coves in which the very boldly colored boats are docked all along the water. We stopped all along the way for photo-ops and to sit and to sit and enjoy our surroundings. It just so happened that on our walk through the pretty quiet streets the sun started to set, reflecting magnificently off the water.  Also to note, we saw some grand, what seemed to be out-of-place towers that we later learned from our tour were used to spot pirates.  (Even the streets in some areas are windy for the people to “run away from pirates” in)

Lisa, George, and Rachel

Peppino's

            Having walked a fair distance we decided to ride back into Paceville on the bus that cost only 47 cents, how amazing is that. Freshened up we met another American George Elkin, who too had been in London but now interns at the Intercontinental hotel in Malta, for drinks and dinner. It just so happened one of his coworkers had suggested the restaurant I saw on the Intercontinental website’s video: Peppino’s. This very rustic Italian style restaurant has been frequented by celebrities such as Madonna, Brad Pitt, Orlando Bloom, Mathew McConneghy, Jacquin Phoenix, and Daniel Craig. Sinking my mouth into what I can happily say is the best pasta I have ever had, I knew I had found heaven. I wish I could recommend the pasta I ordered but all I remember was it had Peppino’s in the name for anyone returning. And make sure to ask for Caroline as your server, the coworker’s girlfriend, and go to the top floor’s balcony as it’ll take your breath away.

            Having had drinks at the Intercontinental and wine at diner, we decided to try out our first night in Paceville and boy was it a night. Whether it be that Malta is small and tourists outnumber locals, that those who go out in Malta are all tourists, or that Malta is actually this diverse, none of the people who we met when we went out were Maltese. I am more than happy with the ethnically diverse people I met, don’t get me wrong, and hope to keep in touch with them.  Every night out we went to a place called Hugo’s Passion and would run into a band of Spaniards and my Italian friend Cristiano Naldini. And my first night I also met a Swiss futbol team and made a friend from China. We seemed to be the life of the party this night and especially the following days when people would recognize us during the daytime.

            After our first night out we decided to sleep in to prevent ourselves from wearing down our immune systems like in Madrid. Well rested and in the early afternoon we decided to hop onto a tour bus to see Northern Malta.  As I am getting tired of writing I will simply list the stops as stated in our tour:

• 1.     Sliema – Sliema is Malta’s main coastal resort. It is a center for shopping, restaurants, and café life. Sliema is also a major commercial and residential area and houses several of Malta’s most recent hotels. The coastline promenade, which runs for several kilometers from St. Julian’s to Gzira and Ta’Xbiex, is ideal for walkers and joggers.
• 2.     Manoel Island – A small island fortified by Grandmaster Manoel de Vilhena, who also built the theater in Valleta. The architect of this project was Frenchman Francois de Mondion, who was also the architect of Louis XIV. The island is now being conserved and converted into an exclusive residential area.
• 3.     Ta’Xbiex Harbour – The area is studded with beautiful villas many of which have now been transformed into embassies
• 4.     Msida Yacht Marina – A magnificent yacht marina with first class berthing facilities
• 5.     Valletta – City Gate is outside Malta’s capital city which was built by the Knights of the Order of St. John in 1568 and transformed over the years into the finest example of baroque. The City is studded with historical palaces, museums, churches, gardens, cafes restaurants, and shops.
• 6.     Hamrun and Sta Venera
• 7.     San Anton Garden – probably the best known of the island’s gardens. San Anton Garden was laid out by Grandmaster Antoine de Paule (1623-1636) as grounds for his summer residence. The garden is a botanical delight with mature trees, old stone urns, fontanels, pounds, and formal flower beds
• 8.     Mdina Glass – You may visit Mdina Glass which is a unique company in Malta, specializing in glass blowing, glass fusion, and lamp work
• 9.     Ta’Qali Crafts Village and Aviation Museum – The former WWII military aerodrome was converted into a hand-crafts center. Here one can buy something completely unique to take home. Beyond the Crafts Village is the Aviation Museum displaying aircrafts.  The Museum is situation in a former RAF station and among the artefacts are a rebuilt Spitfire Mk IX and a Hawker Huricane Ila.
• 10. Mosta – Mosta lies in the heart of Malta. It is the busy market town. At its center is a magnificent dome church (1860), The Mosta Retunda is the third largest unsupported church done in Europe.  In WWII, the church took a direct hit from a German bomb that pierced the dome, but failed to explode. Other Mosta attractions include the Victoria Lines, the WWII shelters, the cave chapel of St. Paul the Hermit in a picturesque valley, and the Chapel of Our Lady of Hope. In its limits there are also prehistoric remains such as catacombs under Fort Mosta and Bronze Age dolmens. 
• 11. Mdina – Mdina is the old capital of Malta and its origins may be traced back to 1500 BC. Mdina has had different names and titles depending on its ruler and its role but its medieval name describes it best – “Citta’ Nobile”: the noble city. Impressive palaces line its narrow, shady streets, Mdina is  one of Europe’s finest examples of an ancient walled city and extraordinary in its mix of Medieval and Baroque architecture.
• 12. Rabat and Domus Romana – Rabat played a major role in Malta’s history. The large provincial township was part of the Roman city of Melita. The town is a commercial centre and acts as a market for its large agricultural hinterland. It is also well established on the tourist map due to its archaeological and historical sites: The Domus Romana Museum, Catacombs, St. Paul’s Grotto, and the fine churches and monasteries
• 13. Bingemma
• 14. Mgarr – Mgarr is a typical rural village. It is surrounded by rich farmland. The area is ideal for country walks with several picturesque spots – Bingemma, Wardija, Fomm ir-Rih and Gnejna Bay. Mgarr’s parish church dedicated to St. Mary was built in 1912. Mgarr is also home to two of Malta’s oldest prehistoric sites: Ta’Hagrat and Skorba.  On the way to Golden Bay you will pay the Roman Baths.
• 15. Golden Bay – One of the island’s most beautiful sandy beaches. Together with its adjoining beach, Ghajn Tuffieha, it is unspoilt and secluded.  Well worth a visit.
• 16. St. Paul’s Bay – This is the quaint location of the original Fishing harbour known as “Il-Menqa” flanked to the left by Wignacourt Tower built by the Grandmaster the oldest standing watchtower of the period the Knights of St. John and to the right by St. Paul’s shipwreck Chapel revered as the spot where the locals lit a fire to warm and welcome St. Paul on his unforeseen arrival on land.
• 17. Bugibba Square – Bugibba and its neighbours Qawra and St. Paul’s Bay are Malta’s largest seaside resort towns. The coastline has been developed into a distinct resort with hotels and numerous holiday apartments. The water on both verges of the bay is not deep and is ideal for swimming off the rocks.
• 18. St. George’s Bay
• 19. St. Julian’s – St. Julian’s is now a major residential and tourist centre and home to some of Malta’s newest hotels. St. Julian’s merges with Paceville, Malta’s main nightlife center with clubs, casinos, restaurants, cafes, and bars.
• 20. Spinola Bay
• 21. Balluta Bay – A small bay between St. Julian’s and Sliema. Its shores are full of cafes, kiosks, and restaurants. The skyline is dominated by the Carmelite Church and the Victorian Balluta Building.

***Make sure when you pronounce the cities that you know that “M” is pronounced “Im” so that Mdina is pronounced “Im-dina”

View from Mdina

            Getting on the bus around 13:00 and the tour ending around 17:00 we only had time to hop off and see Mdina where we luckily got to go into a glass shop of beautifully blown glass. As we walked through the streets we walked through St. Paul’s Square, got to pet some horses drawing the carriages, and found ourselves with a view overlooking what seemed to be all of Malta.

            Once off the bus and no longer numb from the wind we took a bus again into Valletta and explored the gardens, but only after getting lost and falling upon the fountains in front of the Grandmaster’s Palace. These fountains were lit as music played and I felt I was standing in front of the European version of the Bellagio hotel fountains in Las Vegas, Nevada. These gardens were surrounded by sculptures and some Roman arches, which passing through gave you a view of Malta from atop the top of Valletta. Again, my breath was taken away as we sat and enjoyed the view of twinkling lights.

            The next day, our third in Malta, was what cemented Malta as my favorite place to be, away from home.  After another night out and meeting more Italians and an Australian, we woke up and caught a bus to the ferry to take us north to Gozo. Once in Gozo our plans were almost foiled, but luckily after running from begging taxi drivers we found out the bus we wanted to take to the other side of Gozo no longer ran. The only way to get to the Azure window was by taxi or in our case, a personal driver named Antonella Grech Borg. Walking into a tour shop we were set up with a driver and set out past a crumbling aquaduct and winding streets all the way to the other side of the island.  Here the road is too poor for cars to travel down and we were let out down the road. This was probably the best thing that could’ve happened to us.

            Leaving what would be the Malta suburbs where there is literally no one on the street we walked out into the opening which looked like Ireland with the expanses of lush green grass spotted with millions of little purple, but mainly yellow flowers. The sun beat down on our beaming faces and we both stopped, stunned, to close our eyes and smile. As we head down the dirt road the view only got more spectacular.  The farther we went the more of the ocean we could see. It was quiet except for us and it was as if we had fallen upon a hidden secret in nature. There were lizards sunbathing and as we turned back we saw the tiered cliffs that looked like steps down the hillside. About halfway down we saw an opening in the side walls and peered around to see a large limestone mine.  There sat one truck and blocks upon blocks of limestone which seems to have come from the surrounding walls. Now we felt as if we were in the Prince of Egypt. The mixed emotions of happiness and confusion left us blissful and giddy with excitement for the Window.

            Passing by the mine we looked over the side of the built up road to see a valley and decided to play with the acoustics. Yelling “MALTAAAAA” we heard it echo throughout this natural crescent. We had a good laugh and walked along the road as the walls from which it was carved seemed to get higher and higher. Next the road became supported by arches as it crossed over some standing water that had fallen down the valley. As we got to the end of the road it opened to the most beautiful sight I have ever seen: the seaside by the Azure Window. The sight of the water crashing against the cliffs and spewing up into the air mixed with the yellow flowers, the green cliffs, and the golden blanket cast over the entire countryside I began to tear up.  As Rachel went towards the Window I found myself following the coral, seashells, and glass that had been almost cemented into the dirt to the pools of water sitting amongst what I have only seen to be lava rock.  This charcoal porous rock held pools of standing water that reflected the sun’s rays and looked like silver. Jumping from rock to rock the song “If I Die Young” by the Perry Band came into my head and I found myself singing.

            “If I die young bury me in satin

            Lay me down on a bed of roses

            Sink me in the river at dawn

            Send me away with the words of a love song“

I got as close as I could to the ocean’s edge and sat with my feet dangling over some pools as I watched the sun set in the strongest, ephemeral bliss I’ve ever felt.  As I recount this, I can feel it again and cannot wait to take my family and my future family there. I would leave my mark on earth at this place.

            Getting picked up by our driver, we went by to Victoria (Rabat) to se St. George’s Basilica and the Citadella. In Victoria, we even had some pasties with one in particular being filled with cheese and apparently traditional to Malta.  Rachel, being more daring, tried a traditional honey ring that consisted of a ring-shaped piece of bread with inlets of a honey-like concoction. She best described it as a funny-tasting Fig Newton. And although we spoke many of times about trying the traditional meal: fenek or rabbit that is marinated overnight in wine and bay leaves and put into a stew or fried, we never quite got around to this meal.

            Taking a bus to the ferry, a ferry to Malta, a bus to Valletta, and a bus to St. Julian’s we grabbed another meal with George at a late 21:00. It seemed we finally got into the swing of eating late meals around 20:00/21:00 in Malta. Launching ourselves into salads, we had a very sweet waiter who seemed to have lost all of his friends as they departed from Malta after some time. My heart still goes out to him. That night we finally met up with our new Hungarian friends who we met outside our guesthouse the night before. Although we sadly did not make it to the pregame, we danced and partied the night away, but not without making a new Serbian friend as well.

La Casa Rocca Piccola

            Our final day in Malta and the weather has decided to take a turn for the worse. Going with our normal optimism we realize we’re not only in Europe, we’re in Malta. Therefore our plans to go to Southern Malta to see the Blue Grotto and Hagar Qim & Mnajdra Temples would have to be saved for a return trip and we would make other plans. So we picked up souvenirs and made our way back to Valletta to see the Casa Rocca Piccola, one of the Royal Knights’ and Admiral’s houses which is still inhabited and exhibited to the public, and above which sits a bomb shelter that when not used as such stored water that fell from the roof. From the 16^th century, the artifacts within this house left my jaw on the floor and I couldn’t help but wonder how someone could now live there, even if the recent inhabitant is 94 years old.

Lisa, George, and Rachel

            Returning to the hotel, as we decided to stay with George our last night, we looked out the window to see what looked like a hurricane.  Needless to say, we decided to eat dinner in our hotel that night before going out for our last night in Malta. Every night we had tried to make it to more than one bar/club, than more than 2, and finally on the last night although we told ourselves we would hit every single one in a line... we made it to three! Free drink tickets had been handed out on some nights, or two-for-one, but seeing as we did not finish dinner and make it out until 1:00 and the bars/clubs closed at 4:00, we decided to do it right ourselves. The first club we enjoyed the 2-for-1 pitcher deal and in this club ended up joining a congo line which I don’t think I’ve done in years. Then of course we made our way to our usual spot Hugo’s Passion to make some last memories. And finally we found our way to another club which had three different dancing rooms where in the very back room we found salsa. If you know me then you know I of course asked some guys to help warm up my salsa moves and then kept at it all night. Luckily I danced with a Turk who too was rusty, but sadly not rustier than me.

            Sleeping an hour and a half we quickly packed, jumped on the bus to Valletta, jumped on the bus to the airport, checked our passports, and then got to the terminal. Finally back in London, we of course missed our bus from Luton and  had to wait another hour and forty minutes to get back to London, only to be at Marble Arch and have to bus it back to Bloomsbury. Home, exhausted, and with a fever for the last twenty-four hours I collapsed with a smile on my face.  Malta, you took my heart away and I cannot wait to see you again.

Things I want to go back to see:

• ·      Catacombs in Mosta
• ·      Temples in Malta
• ·      Blue Grotto in Southern Malta
• ·      Blue Lagoon in Comino

Things I learned

1. ·      Spend more time in a country so that you can learn about the culture
2. ·      Take a tour in a country where you don’t speak the language so you actually know what you are looking at
3. ·      Take the time to talk to locals whether it is a personal driver or the guy at the souvenir shop
4. ·      Experiencing things at night, instead of having down time, are worth it
5. ·      Again, make sure to see friends in foreign countries as it really does make a difference
6. ·      Traveling when there are not as many tourists can really make the difference
7. ·      However, bad weather can keep you from seeing everything, but it’s worth it to experience things by yourself for what it is rather than more things in crowds
8. ·      Buses are the way to go, including tour buses
9. ·      Make sure to get two keys to your room

Countries visited: 3