Blog 3: Madrid, Spain

"Te Amo Abuela"

El Palacio Real

Two days of being almost comatose in bed and it was all worth it. Most probably wouldn’t describe Madrid as being a romantic city but I saw the magic.  The last day was one to remember forever.

Landing Friday morning at 00:15 we took a cab to our hostel, Cat’s Hostel, which stood with scaffolds and at night, appeared dark and dreary. We paid and settled in. Having met a woman on the plane who suggested a club we set out to find it.  Walking down prostitution filled streets, poorly lit, with the buildings slandered with graffiti, my hopes were beginning to be let down. I had thought Madrid to to be wonderful, not a crime filled ghetto.

Olivia, Emily Freeman, Rachel King, Lisa Inouye

Bar Co.

Running into two boys – one Canadian and one French – we were led with our new British friend Olivia, also staying at the hostel, to a bar called Bar Co. There in Madrid there is a cover fee even for bars, but to our surprise this is just to ensure you buy a drink. The cover fee presents you with a drink voucher, a nice surprise. As we realize our friend’s description as a “do whatever the fuck you want” club was true, we start to study the people ranging from teenagers to people possibly even in their forties. Hair length ranged from bald to long hair on men. And the dress was literally, whatever you found and put together. We decided to go with the funk and this two story bar turned into a night full of fun.

Waking up after just three hours of sleep we made our complimentary breakfast of dirt-tasting coffee (from the looks of my friends) and croissants. The 11:00 walking tour was cancelled due to a lack of participants, however, the guide was nice enough to map out our tour.  This is when I finally began to see Madrid for what it was.

Isabella, Lisa, Jake, Emily, Rachel

Plaza Mayor

The streets were bright with lights and for the first time in a month I felt the warmth of the sun on my skin; so much so I could strip down to my tank top. We walked down Calle Atocha to our first landmark: La Plaza Mayor. Here they hold all sorts of festivals and events and it’s one of the biggest tourist spots in Madrid. Passing through an arch between abounding buildings we walk into the open Plaza Mayor, which in the center stands a statue of Felipe III. Behind this statue is an old building called La Casa de la Panadería, the former headquarters of the bakers guild, on which Goya has left his artistic touch. The colors still stand vibrant and are illuminated by the beaming sunlight.  We walk past a middle-aged man sitting by a light post playing the accordian and behind him sits a couple wrapped in each other’s arms. Little did I know just how romantic a city Madrid is.

Emily, Rachel, & Lisa

El Palacio Real

We passed through another arch and stumbled upon El Mercado de San Miguel which was an immaculate, more modern market where unfortunately there was nothing to taste, but the choices were infinite.  In the center sits many tables and barstools for people to indulge in this decadent food being served in the many well-built, beautiful stands.  The food ranged from raw meats to fish to oysters to pastries to alcoholic drinks (all guilty pleasures). We continued on, not yet hungry, to La Catedral de la Almudena which stunned us in its grandeur and ornamentation. This cathedral sits next to Madrid’s most impressive landmark: El Palacio Real, the largest palace in Europe. Upon attempting to enter a tour at the palace was when I realized I’d been pick-pocketed. That means in the two countries I’ve been to I’m two for two (camera pick-pocketed in London).

Realizing my situation, I was with great friends in Madrid and this would probably be the only time I will have this opportunity, I shrugged it off and we continued on our free walking tour. Before the palace is La Plaza de Oriente. This Plaza spoiled us as I soon learned that all gardens and parks were well landscaped with patterned hedges and well groomed plants. We then took a peak at the Jardines (Gardens) de Sabatini, but realized from an aerial view that this garden would look the same at eye level so we decided to turn back and head east down El Calle Arenal which would lead us to La Plaza de Sol, equally as famous as La Plaza Mayor, but more touristy and less Spanish.

Rachel, Emily, & Lisa

La Chocolatería San Ginés

This street is much more narrow and gave us a Spanish feel as the cobbled streets stood between old beautiful buildings with each door complete with a balcony and beautiful sculptures framing the windows. We stopped into La Chocolatería San Ginés, recommended to me by friends, for their famous chocolate con churros. Notice I said chocolate with churros and not churros with chocolate… I think you get the picture.

Rachel, Lisa, & Emily

La Plaza de Sol

At La Plaza de Sol, claimed to be the “heart of Madrid,” we are greeted by two fountains, between which stands the statue across from the Capital building and Kilometer Zero.  This Plaza also holds the famous statue of Madrid: a bear climbing the madroño tree, which is the symbol of Madrid.  And lastly, behind this statue is the famous Tío Pepe sign. Apparently this neon sign is significant for the New Year’s celebrations held there. Personally, this plaza was my least favorite, but even served as a meeting point for us tourists. After tasting both a chicken and sea version of paella at a quaint restaurant at La Plaza Mayor, watching the tail end of a flamenco dance, and running into USC friends Jake Kennedy and Isabella Sa Fiere, we decided on a short two hour siesta before going to the two-free hours at El Museo del Prado which houses both Goya and Velazquez.

Ground Floor at Kapital

After running to exchange pounds for dollars and grabbing a quick Mediterranean dinner we decided on another hour siesta before meeting Jake and Isabella at a seven story club called Kapital. Lucky for us we ran into a girl in line who gave us a coupon for a 15 euro entrance that provided us with two drink vouchers.  Each floor contained different music and the bottom one had dancers and Jake and my personal favorite: a jet that blasted air from the ceiling. Almost crawling out of the club at 5:30 a.m. we made our way out of the club and decided to sleep into 11.

Lisa, Emily, & Rachel

El Retiro Park

We woke up and grabbed a late breakfast before walking through the beautiful El Retiro Park. Feeling the weight of the past thirty-six hours we decided to sit on a bench that faced a pond where groups of friends rowed around in the beautiful weather we were graced with.  After spending hours people watching we decided to walk back to La Plaza de Sol to find Kilometer 0, allowing us to pass by La Puerta de Alcala, El Palacio de Comunicaciones (a beautiful city halls), La Plaza de la Cibeles, and down through the Metropolis area.  Grabbing some food for energy, we decided to get one euro ham or cheese sandwiches in a baguette from the bargain stop El Museo del Jamon.

Our final siesta allowed us to wake up to the most blissful time of day when everything just seemed to be right. The sun fell on the buildings and seemed to cast a golden glow over the entire city. All the musicians seemed to be out at the same time: accordians and string quartets alike. As we strolled to La Plaza de España to see the Don Quixote, Sancho Panza, and Cervantes sculptures, we passed again by the Palace and beautiful fountain which allowed me to take the above picture.

Rachel, Emily, & Lisa

El Templo de Debod

Climbing a staircase of stairs, we then followed the throngs of people up some hill hoping to fall upon El Templo de Debod, known as a great place for watching the sunset. Boy was it ever. It seemed the entire city – local singles and couples with their dogs, tourists (friends, family, and schoolmates) – came to this spot to end the day in unison. From behind the temple, given to Spain from Egypt for saving one of their temples, we saw streams of light.  Following the light we were greeted with the most magnificent view of the Madrid skyline and we seemed to be watching from one of the highest points in Madrid.  The magnitude of V’s of birds that flew overhead made the experience magical. It was as if we were in Egypt and the birds were lotuses. The sun set and everyone proceeded on with their day. Tired of carbohydrates we settled on salads and then met my Sacramento friend Jaron Moler for a futbol match and found ourselves hanging out til 4 am. We slept for an hour and then slept on any surface we found as we made our way back to London. Even the dreary weather made us feel at home.

Things I learned in Madrid:

• 1.     When you book through hostel bookers you only pay the deposit.
• 2.     You have to pay a safety deposit for the hostel key
• 3.     You may get pick-pocketed so bring a credit card but keep it in the room
• 4.     Look for places with vegetables before it is too late
• 5.     Travel with friends who you want to share the experience of a lifetime with, it’ll make it the more worthwhile
• 6.     Your friends will also have your back
• 7.     Make sure to visit friends from home – they make the experience too and give you a taste of home and warmth
• 8.     Take your time, you’ll pay for it if you don’t sleep

Countries Visited: 2