Copenhagen, Denmark

Jeg Elsker Deg Farmor

Copenhagen, Denmark

I live for the weekends. This means I wake up in another country and discover something I never knew existed, both in my surroundings and in myself. To be honest, London no longer greatly interests or stimulates me as I associate it with work and something too American to make me feel as if I am being stimulated culturally. I am hungry to learn more about the world and I can only do this through personal experience.

Copenhagen was a unique experience as Morgan Ferguson introduced me to my first couch surfing experience.  Not only is it free, but it’s absolutely amazing. I understand I was most likely spoiled rotten in Copenhagen, but I got to meet a Danish citizen and learn the culture and gain advice from him. His name is Kevin and he is a thirty-two year old jiu jitsu teacher to children who treated Morgan and I like we were his children. He has a two and half year old darling daughter named Anaya who is full of energy is a 7:00 alarm clock, but even she was kind as they quietly ate breakfast in the dining room attached to the living room in which we stayed.

Traveling at night we left to catch a bus to Stanstead airport. It was better than I expected not waking up at 3:00 am to catch a bus. Arriving an hour early after rushing around to find some kroners, of which the exchange rate is 23 pounds to 200 kroners, I showed up an hour early to my bus as I don’t usually look at times in 24:00. I guess I have no excuse, but I luckily got on the early bus to Stanstead and got a bite to eat after meeting up with Morgan who took a later train. Easy going, we both got our window seats and passed out as she’d just got back from Jailbreak to Budapest and I’d been out past 4:00 the night before and woke up just in time to pack.

Kevin had sent us the best instructions to get to his place with the metro and bus numbers and even the times they left so we had no problem. We got into the Denmark airport and got a great laugh when we made a friend with a guy in one of the shops in the airport. He paid me in kroners and realizing we were complete foreigner this white haired, jolly, grandfather looking man asked us what the one cent with a hole in it reminded us of. More specifically he asked us what sport. He named an athlete we didn’t know and then asked us what Tiger Woods played. It’s a hole in one. Pretty clever I think. At least it made us laugh.

Once arriving we met Kevin and began to talk about Denmark and the Danish and the culture in general. As I read the Wikitravel guide and we tried to narrow down things to do I could not help but laugh out loud as I read the following (read the bold if anything as it is enjoyable):

“Danes are rightly famous for their good looks, but unlike most other places, their lucky draw at the gene pool hasn't translated into the self assertion and confidence you normally see. And the Danes have become infamous for being closed and tight lipped, bordering the outright rude. So while it is by no means impossible, you will still be hard pressed to find a Dane readily engaging in casual conversations with strangers. That is, until you hit the country's bars and nightclubs.

As any foreigner who has spend time observing the Danes will tell you, alcohol is the fabric that holds Danish society together. And when they are off their face in the dead of night, they suddenly let their guard down, loosen up, and while a bit pitiful, they somehow transmorph into one of the most likable bunch of people on Earth. Rather than the violence associated with binge drinking elsewhere, because it seems to serve a very important social purpose, the natives get very open, friendly and loving instead. It takes some time getting used to, but if you want to form bonds with the Danes, this is how you do it - God help you if you are abstinent. This also means Danes have a very high tolerance for drunk behavior, provided it takes place in the weekends. Drink a glass or two of wine for dinner during the week, and you can be mistaken for an alcoholic, but down 20 pints on a Saturday night, and puke all over the place, and everything will be in order.”

Liver pate on Danish bread with sliced Beets

Our first night, getting to know Kevin, we stayed in and I even tried a dish I have refused to eat when offered by my mother. Having read that liver pate was a traditional dish I couldn’t say no when Kevin offered to make us food. I soon learned saying “yes” to something new can pay off. Not only was the liver pate spread on Danish bread, but it was topped with one of my favorite vegetables – beets – and served with a hardboiled egg on the side. The hardboiled egg was actually Morgan’s which I finished along with her half piece of bread with liver pate. Morgan you actually really missed out feeding me while Kevin was out of the room. This secret was also later let out of the bag. Warning us of Anaya’s energetic 7:00 wake up time before she went to pre-toddler school Kevin went to bed early after we watched some Danish television. Not only are there naked elderly people in the Danish commercials but they have Minute to Win It, Danish style complete with very attractive Danes.

The Danishes we woke up to

The next morning we slept in to 15 past 11:00 I remember hearing as Kevin walked in and put Danishes down on the living room table. Who wakes up to Danishes (the pastries) their first morning in Denmark? As we ate and planned out our days a bit more extensively and found out it was – 1 degrees Celsius that day. Never have I heard a temperate been that low in a place I was living. I tried getting dressed but failed and was luckily lent some wool socks to wear over my socks which went over my tights. I was also given a wool sweater to wear under my shirt and another sweater he also lent me to wear under my pea coat. Having never been faced with such weather, I thought a scarf and gloves would suffice. I was wrong.

The Back of Rosenberg Castle

Morgan and I wandered onto Bus 2A into the city center from Flintholm and grabbed what we thought was a hot chocolate from a place that looks exactly like the UK Costa Coffee. We soon learned hot chocolate is hot milk with two large pieces of chocolate on sticks. We were supposed to have asked for cocoa milk, our mistake? We then hopped on another bus and found our way to Rosenberg Castle which holds the Danish crown jewels. Walking around the beautiful palace we found a nice pond that was iced over and some snow on the ground. I guess it actually was cold.  And we got to see some military men training before walking through the well trimmed tree lines paths and climbing in the large bowl-shaped trees amongst the park.

Morgan and I played around in the National Gallery

Coming to a gate, we changed our plans as we had stumbled upon the National Gallery and saw a large sign reading “Bob Dylan.” Knowing about the exposition we had wanted to go there and luckily we chose to because who knew Bob Dylan was not only a musician but an artist who painted a Brazil series in addition to his album covers. We were lucky to not only see this but watch a video that took people from all backgrounds who commented on his work and what they saw in his pieces. This was eye opening as I saw new things I did not see in his work and it made me wish people critically analyzed art verbally more often. Also in the museum, Morgan – a knowledgeable art history major – taught me about famous works and painters she recognized. I was definitely treated as I was told more than an audio tour would have told me.

Morgan's Dream: Chocolate in Magasin

Morgan and I then ventured into the city center at Kongens Nytorv or the King’s Square which houses the large department store Magasin! Coming out of the metro we walked into Magasin and were greeted by the most heavenly smell of butter and a bakery. We had samples of chocolate and drooled over the chocolates and pastries that stood before us, fortunately in glass cases. Magasin has a grocery store in the bottle as well as two bakeries, three chocolate shops, and a restaurant and bar. We walked out of Magasin and into King’s Square and stumbled into the Det Kongelige Teater. Morgan saw that the My Fair Lady was showing and next thing we knew it we purchased tickets to a showing the next night.

New Haven

Also attached to the King’s Square is Nyhavn or New Haven which is a harbor, but more of a canal where boats sit frozen in the ice.  The sun had begun to set as we walked down the left and then up the side of this canal lined with colorful buildings looking for a restaurant. As it was we met Kevin and Anaya for dinner after waiting at King’s Square while they were at the Town Square. Finally meeting up, with a chill in our bones, we sat down to warm drinks and a warm dinner at Magasin. Kevin recommended a Danish dish to me and Morgan got her meat she’d been searching for in the form of a burger. After describing what comfort food was the night before to Kevin and giving the example and ingredients in English I found myself eating a Danish meatloaf. Apparently, meatloaf and my English don’t translate the best to Danish. And this savory meatloaf was covered in beets, capers, raw onions, cheese, parsley, and apples sitting beside lettuce on a plate smeared with egg yolk. Before leaving Morgan picked up a rhubarb pie for Anaya and I a bottle of white wine for Kevin.  That night we indulged in the rhubarb pie and grapes and Danish chocolate we had picked up on the way home.

Morgan and I the first night out at CBS's Bar

Our second night in Copenhagen became out first night out as Morgan and I met up with USC friend Kate Ikehara who is studying in Copenhagen. We got off the metro at Frederiksberg and joined Kate at the Copenhagen Business School’s (CBS’s) school bar. Set amongst beautiful, modern classrooms was a dj and a full out bar flocked with students. Morgan and I took full advantage of the 10 shots for 100 kroners deal before dancing amongst classrooms and meeting some students going to different clubs. We settled on Zen off the Norreport metro stop and fell in love with this club. We danced in the dj booth, on platforms, on a runway-like area, and obviously on the dance floor in this club until five in the morning. Finally making our way home we collapsed.

Danish Open Faced Sandwiches

Sleeping in until the early afternoon we had to hurry to make out way to Kongens Nytorv because USC friend Brittany Jacobson had arrived! We picked up some lunch at a local grocery store and I got to try three open faced half sandwiches: (1) roast beef, lettuce, pickles, cheese, and wasabi, (2) hardboiled eggs, bacon, tomato, and lettuce, and (3) salami, raw eggs, a vegetable I can’t remember, and lettuce.

Royal Cafe near the Town Square

After some trouble trying to meet up we settled in at the Royal Café near the Town Square. Royal Café is a very posh, elaborate café with art ascending up the walls, chandeliers hanging from the ceilings, and knick knacks and books placed everywhere. Large trees sat atop the tables and we felt as if we were in Alice in Wonderland. Before this Morgan and I had walked into a church wondering why it said “THIS IS NOT A CHURCH” on a sign outside, when it clearly was a church. An abandoned church, it now housed artwork but we decided to spend our time on something we appreciated more. Splitting up, Morgan went home to nap as I showed Brittany New Haven and we walked along the water at sunset.

Snuck a picture of a scene from My Fair Lady

As Brittany made her way back to Danhostel, Morgan and I met up and got ready for My Fair Lady and picked up a quick dinner, a burger and a kebab sandwich respectively. We made it to the theater a bit late but were seated in some seats on the side. Luckily, since in Danish, Morgan was able to tell me a short synopsis about this musical on the way there. My Fair Lady was a play adopted to a movie and later to a musical that told the story of a poor English girl who wanted to take voice lessons to become more respectable. The story follows her journey and includes a romantic twist as she is courted but falls in love instead with her teacher. The production could not have been done better with the rotating scene, the magnificent costumes, and in a language that made the play even more beautiful. The dancing added a bit of edge, especially being in Europe, and I felt as if I was watching a scene from Moulin Rouge. Eliza, the main character, was suspended in air which was part of one of many jokes. Unfortunately we could not enjoy all the comedic touches, but I learned plays do not need words. It is true action speaks louder than words. And this play was magical and romantic. Being left with butterflies, the three of us made our way out of the production and wandered around the theater to realize it was just as stunning as the room we entered resembled a ballroom.

Brittany, Lisa, and Morgan out in King's Square

That night we enjoyed a second dinner, after picking up a bite by our home, at a restaurant called Mama Rosa. The waiter most definitely was hostile even as we sat down but we laughed it off as we met some Spaniards who not knowing we spoke Spanish, made fun of Brittany’s torn map. The three of us then split 10 shots and before Morgan went home to get some sleep, she watched Brittany and I as we shared 10 shots, each of different alcohol. From what I can remember now there was 1 Bailey’s, 1 licorice tasting, 1 raspberry vodka, 1 watermelon vodka, 1 tequila, 1 rum, and 4 I now can’t think of as there were too many flavors, not that we were too drunk. That night we wandered around King’s Square’s bars, but not were quite our cup of tea.

Danish changing of the guards

Our final morning and day in Copenhagen we met up in Kogens Nytorv again after grabbing Danish scones which are surprisingly light and fluffy like a dinner roll, just dotted with mini chocolate chips to add a hint of sweetness. This morning was beautiful and sunny and having looked at the weather report we saved the outdoor activities for this day. We saw a procession leaving the Royal Palacse after the Danish changing of the guards in front of which drummers beat their drums. I’ve now seen the changing of the guards in a city before I have seen it in London.

Morgan and Lisa in front of the Royal Palaces

Brittany and I laughed as we passed a Danish hot dog stand, having had grabbed a snack the night before, and the three of us made our way towards the Royal Palaces or the four palaces of Amalienborg. On the way we passed some beautiful antique buildings that alike Malta were beautiful in their destruction. Trees and vines crept up the walls of buildings sitting in gated courtyards I found myself wandering into. And finally at the Royal Palaces we walked through some gates and found ourself open to four very expansive buildings surrounding a circle. The guard let us taking pictures with him but we had to stand a step away as he marched and stopped for a picture.

Lisa, Morgan, and Brittany in front of the River and Black Diamond Opera House

We then headed towards the river and past a dried out fountain in which I found dried up metal coins amongst the old dirt and rubble. Walking over the fountain we stood on top and looked at the view on this bright and sunny day. As we walked again towards the Black Diamond we found ourselves stopping to sit and enjoy this moment. I tapped my shoes on the floating ice and soon was infected by how fun it was and it took all my energy to stop before we continued back through the circle to a church.

Although I do not know the name of the church, I got to see my first inside of a church since there was no entrance fee or service going on. Putting on my glasses I found myself craning my neck to look up at the high ceiling on which were painted glorified frescoes. Looking around the church I also saw an organ which although not large still impressed me for even existing now a day.

Lisa, Morgan, and Brittany in front of the Little Mermaid statue

Next we found ourselves in a park on the way to the Little Mermaid statue which took all of our breaths away. Canals ran throughout the hills of grass that stood outside the military base’s walls. And on the land above the base stood a windmill and cannons of all sizes. We followed the winding path and after grabbing hot chocolate and a postcard waited amongst the many tourists to see the Little Mermaid. You had to tip toe across ice to get to the statue for a photo opportunity, whether you were a male putting your hand on Ariel’s breast, or an old woman who stood there for far too long. Passing many more statues we made our way back along the river and up along the canal in New Haven where the three of us split up: Morgan to the Glyptotek Museum and Brittany and I to Christania, a commune near the Christianshavn metro stop.

Lisa and Brittany on a bridge in front of a Danish Canal

Walking by canals shimmering with light and lined with boats, we walked across bridges and by tempting bakeries and soon were faced with a carriage of musicians and people riding horses coming down the street towards us. It was Danish Halloween and the people were singing the Danish version of “The Saints Go Marching In.” We pet the horses and asked a guy at the atm we stopped at how to get to Christania, upon which he directed us and instructed us to go to café with the word Moon in it’s name.

Snuck a picture in Christania of some of the art and mosaic

Christania is more unique than any place you will ever come across. It is within Denmark, a country of the EU, but it itself is not part of the EU, is not part of Denmark, and it has no laws. It looks like shantytowns would as people stand amongst fires in trash cans, buildings look run down, and the people are dressed as if they don’t care. No pictures allowed but we snuck a few. Art fills this community from graffiti to paintings on buildings to carved trees to mosaics in trees and amongst the stone walls. Tents where people sold weed and hash, grown there although being a military base food cannot be grown, lined the streets we walked along to get to the river. People sat amongst a levy looking out over the water as the sun began to lower and we made our way to grab hot drinks from what we thought was a café, but was much more. The drinks here are very cheap and sold in a smoke filled room that we had to quickly escape. We wanted to soak in the atmosphere of the outdoors anyways so we sat outside, drank our drinks, and continued to explore.

Morgan, Anaya, and Lisa with the Enchiladas

Grabbing the pastries we had eyed the entire trip Brittany and I indulged before riding the metro back to Kevin’s to make enchiladas for dinner. Morgan impressed me with her cooking skills which no one would expect from how picky an eater she herself is. She not only made enchiladas from scratch but she made the sauce from scratch and improvised without tasting a thing. That night I ate the best enchiladas I have ever eaten and they were made in less time than I’ve ever seen them be made in. The enchiladas were crunchy on the outside, had the right amount of sauce, cheese, and extra chicken on the outside, and were warm, gooey, and decadent on the inside. I probably ate too many as we finished it off with chocolate and white wine before Kevin surprised us and ran out to 7-11 to grab beers to enjoy with us.

Lisa, Kevin, and Morgan and our beers

Morgan having to do a presentation stayed in that night and babysat after enjoying some wine and the three of us gorging ourselves with Danish beer – Tuborg – and some Carlsberg. I have never drank so much beer in my life but thankfully the Mexican food and all the food from earlier that day did their job as I felt fine for going out to the meat packing area, the place we’d been looking for that Kevin recommended but which no one in Denmark knew of. In Danish it is called Kodbyen and we made it to his favorite bar: Karriere. The three of us danced until the bar closed and then made our way to Rust, another place Kevin had recommended just a few bars away. Getting late, the three of us shared a cab and called it a night.

In the morning, Morgan and I got some sleep and made our way to the airport. Just our luck Easy Jet decided to have on person working the desk and about 30+ people in line. We barely made our flight after cutting the check-in line, cutting the security line, running through the entire Copenhagen airport (and if you’ve been there you’d understand why we were as sweaty as we were on the plane), Morgan buying her brother a snow globe, and me wiping out in front of the passport check desk. We actually made it with 11 minutes to spare and ahead of 6 passengers, but who is counting. Copenhagen was a beautiful place with very kind people and it is a place I’d recommend to anyone looking for a nice experience.

Things I learned:

1.     Take advantage of Couch Surfers. I now know it is a company where people help people. Traveling isn’t as amazing as you think until you start and once you start you can’t stop. These people understand and they make your experience. It’s also the best way to soak up a culture.
2.     Couch Surfers tell you where to go and what to eat. Not being able to say no to someone can turn out well.
3.     Don’t say no to any foods until you try them.
4.     Just because you think it won’t be as cold as you think pack warm clothing. You’re not always going to be lucky that someone will lend you clothes.
5.     Although not everyone has to stay together, do as it will make traveling easier and safer. Otherwise, be generous and make sure the group helps the individual get home
6.     During the day it’s ok to split up and spend time seeing what you want to see rather than rushing everywhere. And it’s ok to go home early to nap by yourself, listen to your body.
7.     Enjoy the small moments. Sit down and let your feet dance on floating ice in the ocean.
8.     Travel at night and later in the afternoon. It’s amazing when you relax during, before, and after your trip. It’s funny that’s how simple it is to not get sick.
9.     Also, make sure to understand how to use the transit tickets whether you speak the language or not. And maps aren’t necessary, as we never got one, but not all countries may be as nice or easy to find your way around by asking locals. Use google maps at least to find metro stops!

Countries visited: 4