Dublin, Ireland

Ta Gra Mor Agam A Shean Mhathair

Dublin, Ireland

This trip is interesting because as far as study abroad I had to choose where to apply between these English speaking countries: England, Australia, New Zealand, and Ireland. I had thought Ireland alike New Zealand would be too natural and not enough of a city and Australia I’d been to, but boy does Saint Patrick’s Day give me a different impression now.

Waking up after two hours of sleep celebrating Sarah Spielberger’s 21^st birthday and the holiday of USC friends Logan Benge and Becca McKnight, I thought getting into Dublin on Tuesday by myself, I might waste the first day just sleeping. However, I arrived in Dublin to a text from Mathieu Picault that said he had work until seven but his roommate Paddy (Patrick) should be up by around noon to let me in. So I went to the tourism center and bought my bus ticket, got some maps, and learned how to write I Love You Grandma from the help of an older and younger Irish woman working together.

Kilmainham Gaol

I took the 16a bus in and met Paddy who welcomed me with a huge smile and a jolly laugh. It just so happened I was staying next to the Church that houses St. Valentine’s relics! The two of us went to lunch at a pub where he, a music manager, held some of his gigs and we went over my list of things to see/do. After lunch he decided to take me to St Patrick’s Cathedral and the Kilmainham Gaol, an Irish prison that tells a lot of Ireland’s history from where they were fighting for a free state and a republic to the potato famine. The Gaol was a very heartfelt tour as we saw the cells (I even got to lay in a prison bed), heard the melancholy stories, and saw some of the places of execution and hanging. It tore my heart to know that children as young as five were put in jail for stealing and that people would commit crimes solely to be put in jail to have a roof over their head and food in their stomachs.

The Formal Garden at the Royal Hospital Kilmainham

After the Gaol, Paddy sent me on my way down a street that would eventually lead me to Trinity College. I walked into the Irish Museum of Modern Art where the boy working there told me the Irish are not known for Modernism and with my amount of time he pointed me to other museums that were more worth my time. This made me laugh but I was thankful and left the museum only to stumble into a field of green grass on my way into the Formal Garden at the Royal Hospital Kilmainham, beside the museum.  This garden was beautiful full of lush greenery and vibrantly colored flowers. 

Dublin Castle

I then made my way out of this area and headed down, what felt like, the backstreets of Ireland.  I walked by St. Audeon’s Church, Dublinia and the Viking World, Christ Church Cathedral, Dublin City Hall, and the Dublin Castle. The Dublin Castle was probably my favorite of the aforementioned with churches and the castle on its grounds that had intricate patterns cut into the grass. As I walked through the gardens surrounding the Dublin Castle, my heart felt light.

Walking around Trinity College

Next I, of course, made my way to the famous Temple Bar named after Sir William Temple.  This bright red building later became a central meeting point for many of my friends and I in the Temple Bar area. And lastly, before calling it a day, I went to Trinity College, a college very beautiful and old which houses the Book of Kells.  Finally tired, I made my way back home to nap before meeting Mathieu, a recruiter for companies such as Facebook and the like, and meeting up with USC friend Ryan Alam. Ryan and I grabbed some Mediterranean food for dinner before going out with Paddy and Mathieu to a very fun place called Dicey’s where after a 5 euro entrance all drinks are only 2 euro!

St. Stephen's Green at Sunset

The next day was spent trying to meet up with friends coming into Ireland as I met Jake Kennedy, Ryan Alam, Hillary Grigsby, and Steph Snyder at a pub to grab some lunch.  Then fellow traveler Rachel King came into town and she and I went to the St. Patrick’s Festival Ceili next to St. Stephen’s Green. This festival was a sight to see! Everyone was dressed in green and doing Irish jigs whether you were a young child jumping around or an eighty year old woman dancing with her daughter and friends. There was Irish music filling the streets and dancers on stage to teach you the dances. I was definitely happy to have made it and then take a stroll through the Green at sunset when the light hit the water on the ponds just right. I was reminded of a park I went to at home when I was young (William Land Park). We walked over the bridges and through the gardens and even got to see a swan elegantly swim about the water before going to meet up with friends Logan and Becca, who also had just arrived. Being St. Patrick’s Eve, as I learned it was called, everyone out was wearing green and the festivities had begun. We saw many dressed as leprechauns and many with fake red hair that night.

Lisa, Reynolds, Sarah, Kyun, and Rachel before the Parade

(in front of Trinity College)

The next day was Saint Patrick’s Day and friend Sarah Spielberger arrived just in time! Having gone out shopping the day before (take advantage of the Everything 2 euro store) I put on my green tube top, white tutu, and Saint Patrick’s Day button, light up earrings, bracelet, and tattoos. We made our way towards the St. Patrick’s Festival Parade and met up with friends Kyun and Reynolds from UCL. The parade was definitely one of culture and tradition as it included chapters, each representing a different region of Ireland. Unlike the very commercialized parades in the US, these floats and those participating donned much more traditional clothing. There were also less floats and more people in costume which made up the parade. With the sun shining we decided to start the St. Patrick’s festivities which would continue into the early hours of the morning. We started on a 10 pub pubcrawl, which I never finished thankfully, as I met up with friends Courtney Brady and spent the first half my day with friends from London and the second half with friends from USC.  If there is anything I learned it’s that the Irish love this holiday and they sure know how to drink. On some streets you could barely move it was so crowded, but luckily everyone was very friendly.

The next day, while the girls went to the Guinness factory (and knowing I’d already tasted Guinness and didn’t need a tour), I decided to sleep in and then figure out my day. Although I’d wanted to go to Galway, Wicklow National Park, Glendalough, and Kilkenny, all these places were too far and part of day long tours. So instead, I went to the tourism office was pointed towards Howth – a small fishing village along the coast that two people at the bus station told me I just must go to! Buying a 4.20 euro roundtrip Dart pass I hopped on the train and made my way to what would be the best decision I had ever made.

The "Castle"

Locals know what they’re talking about. Forget the tourist sites and listen to the locals, they know where the hidden gems are and you will find places that very few go to making the experience more heartfelt and unique. (Remember in Malta the more deserted a place the better as it seems more natural and less touristy). Getting off the train I wanted to find what I thought was a castle.  In all fairness it was a castle, but it was the Kitchen in the Castle Cookery School. Nevertheless, the road to the castle along a crumbling brick wall and passing by a small waterfall was well worth it.

After passing the castle, I decided to walk down one of the most beautiful walks I’ve ever been down. The trees, covered in moss and leaves, and the sun shining high made this forest a place I will never forget. I stumbled across an old brick building covered in vines and now lacking a roof and might have even come across what looked like a brick shrine hidden a little deeper in the trees.

Passing the castle, I walked along the Deerpark Hotel Spa and Golf and although it was a long walk uphill, I am very glad to have been the only person walking and not driving this route. I ended up being able to sidetrack and walk up to a wooden fence with barbed wire to look out over the greenest farmland I’ve ever seen. Not only that, but I got to pet some cows for my first time ever. If you know me, you know my obsession with animals and this made my day.

Getting to the hotel, I asked for directions to the Rhododendrons. The woman at reception told me it was just behind the hotel so I went around back and ran into some of these trees and very steep wooden steps. I thought oh, these steps must just lead up to the gardens and I should be there soon. Well I ended up climbing a mountain, trekking through mud, hopping from rock to rock, and ducking through woods.  The pay off was something I could have never imagined. I found myself at the top of a mountain that looked out from Howth all the way back to Dublin.  I could do a 360 and was surrounded by a breathtaking view and millions of little yellow flowers. And of course the sun was setting now. I walked away from the two couples also atop the hill and sat on some rocks to look out upon the green land, two beaches, the city, and endless water and sky. Grandma, I could not be more thankful than I was at that very moment.

Making my way back down the mountain I walked into town and grabbed some coffee and a small bite at a little restaurant called the Brass Monkey.  After getting reenergized I walked down the road of shops along the marina and saw all the little boats and the huge fishing boats as well. At the end of the road there were rounded steep steps that a few people seemed to be climbing up so I decided to climb up them too. With the lighthouse to my right and land to my left, I looked straight out on the glimmering water to Ireland’s Eye and the Martello Tower. I was left speechless again and sat here for a while after everyone left to soak in the sight by myself. Again, grandma, you have outdone yourself. And this is all a hidden secret of the Irish.

Lisa, Reynolds, Kyun, Rachel, Sarah, and Morgan

with our 2-for-1 Daquiris at Porterhouse

Finally meeting up with Morgan, we girls went out for 2-for-1 daiquiris and then made our way to the club area where promoters gave us wristbands for free entrance into Krystel, which sat just atop and overlooked Dicey’s.

After a late night, the girls somehow on two hours of sleep made their way to Galway for their tour while I slept in to avoid exhausting myself. I woke up and was served breakfast by Mathieu and his roommates: toast, eggs, and bacon. Mathieu and I then spent the day in Dublin as he wanted to show me around as Paddy had. We spent the day having coffee on a terrace, going in and out of vintage shops, markets, music stores, and even found ourselves sitting reading on the floor of Tower Records. Afterwards we met up with some of his friends to watch the Ireland versus England rugby match in a pub to which Ireland (#4) creamed England (#1)! To thank Mathieu for letting him stay with us I cooked us dinner that night while the girls returned from Galway and we all hung over before going to bed to wake up for our early 6:25 flight.

Things I learned:

1.     Go to tourism centers, they are helpful (just like the normal person would think)

2.     Make sure to top up your phone or figure out a phone plan before you travel to a new country

3.     Get rest and go at your own pace. As much as you think you may have missed out on something, you can always go back and something else can make your day

4.     Go with the flow and ask what locals would recommend you see (Kilmainham Gaol and Howth)

5.     Be adventures and it will pay off. You could find yourself in the most beautiful place like on top of a mountain

6.     Don’t be afraid to sit at a bar in a restaurant and eat by yourself, it’s a lot nicer than grabbing stuff to eat on the go to not be embarrassed

7.     Be very thankful of what people do for you and make sure to repay them.

8.     Send numerous couch surfing requests because once you arrive you will have many new friends who may spot you or agree to meet up even if they can’t host you

9.     Arrange meeting times and places and make sure everyone knows them so that people are all on the same page and patient to wait for others.

9.

Countries visited: 6

Paris, France

Je T'aime Grand-Mere

Paris, France

Having been to Paris, I planned this trip to see best friends Jasmine Rodgers and Jake Kennedy. Not wanting to see the normal tourist spots I’d already seen I thought I’d see a lot of their favorites and less known tourist spots. Turns out, they really know their stuff.

Arriving Thursday night I met Jasmine at the Opera House after sitting at the back of it, thinking it was the front, for a good hour plus. I walked around and got hot chocolate which if you don’t ask for sugar will be quite bitter and syrup-like. Once meeting her at the front I was opened up to a view similar to that of sitting on the steps in Trafalgar Square in London. As Jasmine came running across the crosswalk, I couldn’t believe she and I were in her favorite city together at last.

The Opera House

Jasmine, knowing I’d seen Paris, decided we could refresh my memory by taking a walking tour from the Opera house to where she is staying in a home stay with our friend Camille Bouteillon’s parents. We walked past a statue dedicated to Napoleon, the Tuileries Gardens, and into the square from which you can see the Arc de Triumph, the Eiffel Tower, and much more. Walking across the bridge, we walked along the river and just when it all started to become a little more real the Eiffel Tower lit up. It was nine o’clock p.m.

Creperie

After stopping by Jasmine’s we showed me around her neighborhood a bit. Paris was just as one would dream: Parisians sitting in cafes with friends, smoking, and sharing wine, dining late into the evening. A shop owner comes out of a florist to sweep up the rose petals that scattered the sidewalks. And as we walk past all the cafes spilling into the street, we spot a creperie, which Jasmine describes as “just a crepe stand.” To watch this old man which up a crepe full of delicious cheese and succulent tomatoes and mushrooms, can only best be described as heavenly. I only wanted more crepes after this first night.

One thing to note, is Parisians do not speak English as readily as one may think. I learned this when I stepped off the plane and asked someone where the bus was, to which I got a response of strung together French words which I had never heard before and will never be able to repeat. Jasmine was able to teach me some things about the French from a book she is reading which I also found very interesting. One, and most notable when walking around, the French do not pick up their dog’s poop. Two, dogs are not put on leashes and you are not to pet one’s dog. Three, the French like exact change. And four, and this is not from Jasmine nor her book, but the French are “rude,” but I experienced nothing of the sort. Rather, the French are very friendly, too friendly when it comes to the men, and even if you don’t speak French they will laugh it off and try to help as much as they can.

Jasmine, Jake, and Lisa reunited in Paris!

So after dinner, we freshened up and made our way to Jake Kennedy’s very modern and chic apartment in the Jewish and gay district of Paris, an area I am very fond of now. We grabbed two bottles of Rose and met up with Lauren and Nikki in the metro and soon Isabella and Kristen arrived straight from the airport. As we all shared some wine and caught up we made our way to the Morgan Bar (a bar that from the outside looks cool with the lights but will only disappoint), Hideout (with a flaming bar in an underground cave – just not the right night), and finally to Café Oz (an Australian bar so rowdy that everyone dances on tables and if pissed will buy anyone a shot). Needless to say, we found a good spot in the end and had a fun night!

The Gardens at the Estate of Versailles

The next day after going to the grocery store, Jasmine and I had quite a three hour travel adventure. While trying to go to Versailles, we ended up not taking the right train and not switching where we should have switched if not on the proper train, which landed us in Zone 5. Zone 1 is Paris, but we just laughed off our two hour train ride through the “Real Paris” or the ghetto which was very eye opening with its buildings you were not sure if they were going up or coming down. Smothered in graffiti, these crumbling buildings were a sight to see. And past the projects and ghettos, we even made it to the countryside where all the eye could see was green and cottages that dotted the train’s line.

Making it to Versailles we found the golden gates and figured out how tricky it was to walk on cobblestone as we made our way up to the Chateau.  We walked through the security area, which is ideal to an airport’s security, and into the gardens which opened up to intricately cut hedges, fountains, flowers trying to bloom (despite the weather), and then a railing that let you look out over an even more beautiful expanse of the royal gardens.

As we heard shots being fired (don’t worry it was only some French’s shooting practice), I could only imagine plates or the like being fired into the air for a proper Frenchman standing there firing his gun while having a nice chat with his friend in their beautiful backyard.  We continued on and only saw more fountains and beautiful gardens as we descended the stairs and made our way to Grand Canal, Grand Trianon, Marie Antoinette’s Estate, and the Petite Trianon. Funny thing to note, we even saw some sheep (one of which was completely tattered) after indulging in our slow cooked baked potatoes topped with chilli, sour cream, and only the best cheese.

Espresso, Macaroons, and Coffee at Lauderee

As we made our way back to the Chateau we learned a little too late the closing time of the Chateau but our day was ended perfectly as we made it to Lauderee, a place known for their tea and macaroons. In my first tea house while coming to England, I felt like a little girl that was passing through one of her rites of passage. After a long night before and a long day, we sipped on coffee and each had a chocolate and a pistachio macaroon. Once again Jasmine spoiled me with the best French macaroons which will only make others disappointing (the same has happened with clam chowder in Malibu).

Showcase - still packed at 5:30 am

The group comprised of Jasmine, Jake, Isabella, Kristin, Lauren, Nikki, Alex, and Hillary then made our way to a fun, hip Moroccan bar/lounge/restaurant where the majority of us indulged in burgers – one of the best I’ve ever tasted. The group then went back to Jake’s where some pregamed on more wine, as I napped, and then we went out to a Parisian club along the river called Showcase! This night was the most fun night I may have had in Europe where Jake’s Canadian roommate Natalia Bragagnolo and I danced til 5:30 in the morning to an amazing dj called Child Prik. This mix of house, electronic, drum and bass, and a little of dubstep made the night memorable in this venue with brick arches and red lighting (my favorite). We had shooters with absinthe and a fun time making some Parisian friends, but watch out – the boys are aggressive so make sure to have someone who speaks French although “No” translates quite well. Make sure if you go to this club to grab one of the kebab sandwiches outside the club, but split it for a lack of guilt. It’s also quite fun at the end of the night to walk by palaces, hop on the metro as people are going to work, and grab chocolate with everyone getting breakfast at a local bakery.  A night well done.

Sacré Coeur Church

Last day in Paris, I took a walk in Jake’s neighborhood and grabbed a sandwich to eat by the carousel before meeting up with Jasmine to spend another day sight seeing Paris.  If in Paris and in your young twenties and a girl, you have to see Moulin Rouge although it is disappointing small and not as grandeur as in the movie, but it’s still the Moulin Rouge regardless. Walking around Paris’s Red Light District was also quite opening, like everything else seemed to be in Paris, but it was unavoidable as we made our way to the Sacred Heart hospital that’s been converted into the Sacré Coeur Church. Not only was the church beautiful, but the entire view of Paris from the Church’s steps were breathtaking. We watched a man I want to marry for his soccer skills juggle hanging from a lamp post and as I took one last look at the view I caught myself looking up with eyes closed saying, “Thank you grandma” in my head. We ran back to take the picture for grandma because it was this moment that made me feel more blessed and thankful than ever.

The Love Wall

Coincidentally, Jasmine then remember there is a wall on which “I Love You” is written in all different languages and we made our way down from the church towards the wall and stumbled across a studio where artists Picasso and Modigliani worked.  As if this walk wasn’t meant to happen we ran into a band playing on the street and some cool graffiti before getting to the Love Wall situated in a little park where I saw a quintessential Parisian reading. Beret, black rimmed glasses, scarf, leather jacket, cargo pants, boots, and a matching book bag wrapped between his crossed legs that supported his sketch pad.

In front of a Monet masterpiece

Jasmine next took me to her favorite Creperie: Creperie Josselin where I had a proper crepe: crispy on the outside and gooey on the inside. This vegetarian crepe seemed to have somehow incorporated the cheese into the crepe’s lining. The crepe was thin and crisp and looked like the caramel cookies that look like lace. After lunch we went to the Museum l’Orangerie which is in the Tuileries Gardens. We walk into the first room and am immediately surrounded by four large Monet water lily paintings.  There was one picture per wall and people sat in the center surrounded by these walls which formed an encompassing oval.  These room sat attached to one identical also full of Monet. Downstairs were works by: Paul Cezanne, Henri Matisse, Amedeo Modigliani, Pablo Picasso, Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Henri Rousseau, Chaim Soutine, and Alfred Sisley. To an art fanatic this is heaven in a quaint museum.

The three female statues in the Tuileries Gardens

Jasmine going for a nap, left me to do my favorite thing on a trip: go on a walk at sunset just aimlessly wandering around an unfamiliar city full of culture and life. I walked through the Tuileries Gardens where people in couples, groups of couples traveling together, and families sat amongst the fountains and walked through the gardens both on the path and off. Some floated boats while others sat back and watched and played with their kids. There were statues amongst the gardens as well – the three female statues in provocative poses were similar to something I once painted from my head and it made me smile.

The Royal Palace Gardens

I then walked through an arch back to the Louvre, a familiar place that I saw when so young that it almost didn’t seem real. I remembered looking at the statues that lines the building enclosing the Louvre and I saw unfamiliar sights: the multiple pyramids and the many fountains. Walking through the arches I had not walked through since I was ten I found my way to a gallery where the artist had a great talent for simplifying the female’s face and their use of energetic colors. Then I stumbled across the Royal Palace that has been transformed into apartments and shops but still includes some fun modern art amongst its center’s gardens. People stood and raced amongst the black and white pillars filling an entire square. Silver balls sat atop elevated plateaus from which poured water making unique fountains. And walking between pillars I saw the most flowers I’d seen in this weather in two separate gardens in which sat three couples: an elderly couple, a male gay couple, and young couple. I very much appreciated this view as children played soccer amongst the trees and families fed the birds bread in the fountains. This was when the sun turned the most bronze that day and fell among the old palace’s walls.

The city had so many statues, fountains, and elegant looking buildings I found myself metaphorically lost as I wandered my way all the way back to the Opera House where I first found myself on this trip. I new this trip had been perfect as I made my way back to Jake’s. I grabbed a chocolate croissant needing to say I’d had a croissant in Paris, of which they are flaky and light and overall perfect, and we rested before grabbing dinner at the trendy Voulez Vous and calling it a night.

Things I learned:

Things I learned:

1.     Learn how to use the metro and trains so it doesn’t take you three hours to get to Versailles, you don’t get lost when by yourself, and you can get to CDG early in the morning

2.     Getting sleep actually pays off

3.     But rallying can also let you have the best night you’ve ever had. Once you’ve had one though, rest

4.     Eating vegetables as snacks you can at least fool yourself you are being healthy

5.     The previous point also allows you to really indulge and taste everything there. When will you be able to eat FRENCH fries, crepes, a croissant, and macaroons in France

6.     Go to people’s favorite places with them – it’s unique and much more special

7.     Learn some of the language and culture and just be friendly so even the “rude” aren’t rude

8.     Do find the tourist things farther away that are worth it. And go for walks alone and at sunset, in combination or not.

9.     Stay in homes as much as you can

10. Make sure you learn when things close and keep track of the time. There are different times depending on the seasons

Countries visited: 5

Copenhagen, Denmark

Jeg Elsker Deg Farmor

Copenhagen, Denmark

I live for the weekends. This means I wake up in another country and discover something I never knew existed, both in my surroundings and in myself. To be honest, London no longer greatly interests or stimulates me as I associate it with work and something too American to make me feel as if I am being stimulated culturally. I am hungry to learn more about the world and I can only do this through personal experience.

Copenhagen was a unique experience as Morgan Ferguson introduced me to my first couch surfing experience.  Not only is it free, but it’s absolutely amazing. I understand I was most likely spoiled rotten in Copenhagen, but I got to meet a Danish citizen and learn the culture and gain advice from him. His name is Kevin and he is a thirty-two year old jiu jitsu teacher to children who treated Morgan and I like we were his children. He has a two and half year old darling daughter named Anaya who is full of energy is a 7:00 alarm clock, but even she was kind as they quietly ate breakfast in the dining room attached to the living room in which we stayed.

Traveling at night we left to catch a bus to Stanstead airport. It was better than I expected not waking up at 3:00 am to catch a bus. Arriving an hour early after rushing around to find some kroners, of which the exchange rate is 23 pounds to 200 kroners, I showed up an hour early to my bus as I don’t usually look at times in 24:00. I guess I have no excuse, but I luckily got on the early bus to Stanstead and got a bite to eat after meeting up with Morgan who took a later train. Easy going, we both got our window seats and passed out as she’d just got back from Jailbreak to Budapest and I’d been out past 4:00 the night before and woke up just in time to pack.

Kevin had sent us the best instructions to get to his place with the metro and bus numbers and even the times they left so we had no problem. We got into the Denmark airport and got a great laugh when we made a friend with a guy in one of the shops in the airport. He paid me in kroners and realizing we were complete foreigner this white haired, jolly, grandfather looking man asked us what the one cent with a hole in it reminded us of. More specifically he asked us what sport. He named an athlete we didn’t know and then asked us what Tiger Woods played. It’s a hole in one. Pretty clever I think. At least it made us laugh.

Once arriving we met Kevin and began to talk about Denmark and the Danish and the culture in general. As I read the Wikitravel guide and we tried to narrow down things to do I could not help but laugh out loud as I read the following (read the bold if anything as it is enjoyable):

“Danes are rightly famous for their good looks, but unlike most other places, their lucky draw at the gene pool hasn't translated into the self assertion and confidence you normally see. And the Danes have become infamous for being closed and tight lipped, bordering the outright rude. So while it is by no means impossible, you will still be hard pressed to find a Dane readily engaging in casual conversations with strangers. That is, until you hit the country's bars and nightclubs.

As any foreigner who has spend time observing the Danes will tell you, alcohol is the fabric that holds Danish society together. And when they are off their face in the dead of night, they suddenly let their guard down, loosen up, and while a bit pitiful, they somehow transmorph into one of the most likable bunch of people on Earth. Rather than the violence associated with binge drinking elsewhere, because it seems to serve a very important social purpose, the natives get very open, friendly and loving instead. It takes some time getting used to, but if you want to form bonds with the Danes, this is how you do it - God help you if you are abstinent. This also means Danes have a very high tolerance for drunk behavior, provided it takes place in the weekends. Drink a glass or two of wine for dinner during the week, and you can be mistaken for an alcoholic, but down 20 pints on a Saturday night, and puke all over the place, and everything will be in order.”

Liver pate on Danish bread with sliced Beets

Our first night, getting to know Kevin, we stayed in and I even tried a dish I have refused to eat when offered by my mother. Having read that liver pate was a traditional dish I couldn’t say no when Kevin offered to make us food. I soon learned saying “yes” to something new can pay off. Not only was the liver pate spread on Danish bread, but it was topped with one of my favorite vegetables – beets – and served with a hardboiled egg on the side. The hardboiled egg was actually Morgan’s which I finished along with her half piece of bread with liver pate. Morgan you actually really missed out feeding me while Kevin was out of the room. This secret was also later let out of the bag. Warning us of Anaya’s energetic 7:00 wake up time before she went to pre-toddler school Kevin went to bed early after we watched some Danish television. Not only are there naked elderly people in the Danish commercials but they have Minute to Win It, Danish style complete with very attractive Danes.

The Danishes we woke up to

The next morning we slept in to 15 past 11:00 I remember hearing as Kevin walked in and put Danishes down on the living room table. Who wakes up to Danishes (the pastries) their first morning in Denmark? As we ate and planned out our days a bit more extensively and found out it was – 1 degrees Celsius that day. Never have I heard a temperate been that low in a place I was living. I tried getting dressed but failed and was luckily lent some wool socks to wear over my socks which went over my tights. I was also given a wool sweater to wear under my shirt and another sweater he also lent me to wear under my pea coat. Having never been faced with such weather, I thought a scarf and gloves would suffice. I was wrong.

The Back of Rosenberg Castle

Morgan and I wandered onto Bus 2A into the city center from Flintholm and grabbed what we thought was a hot chocolate from a place that looks exactly like the UK Costa Coffee. We soon learned hot chocolate is hot milk with two large pieces of chocolate on sticks. We were supposed to have asked for cocoa milk, our mistake? We then hopped on another bus and found our way to Rosenberg Castle which holds the Danish crown jewels. Walking around the beautiful palace we found a nice pond that was iced over and some snow on the ground. I guess it actually was cold.  And we got to see some military men training before walking through the well trimmed tree lines paths and climbing in the large bowl-shaped trees amongst the park.

Morgan and I played around in the National Gallery

Coming to a gate, we changed our plans as we had stumbled upon the National Gallery and saw a large sign reading “Bob Dylan.” Knowing about the exposition we had wanted to go there and luckily we chose to because who knew Bob Dylan was not only a musician but an artist who painted a Brazil series in addition to his album covers. We were lucky to not only see this but watch a video that took people from all backgrounds who commented on his work and what they saw in his pieces. This was eye opening as I saw new things I did not see in his work and it made me wish people critically analyzed art verbally more often. Also in the museum, Morgan – a knowledgeable art history major – taught me about famous works and painters she recognized. I was definitely treated as I was told more than an audio tour would have told me.

Morgan's Dream: Chocolate in Magasin

Morgan and I then ventured into the city center at Kongens Nytorv or the King’s Square which houses the large department store Magasin! Coming out of the metro we walked into Magasin and were greeted by the most heavenly smell of butter and a bakery. We had samples of chocolate and drooled over the chocolates and pastries that stood before us, fortunately in glass cases. Magasin has a grocery store in the bottle as well as two bakeries, three chocolate shops, and a restaurant and bar. We walked out of Magasin and into King’s Square and stumbled into the Det Kongelige Teater. Morgan saw that the My Fair Lady was showing and next thing we knew it we purchased tickets to a showing the next night.

New Haven

Also attached to the King’s Square is Nyhavn or New Haven which is a harbor, but more of a canal where boats sit frozen in the ice.  The sun had begun to set as we walked down the left and then up the side of this canal lined with colorful buildings looking for a restaurant. As it was we met Kevin and Anaya for dinner after waiting at King’s Square while they were at the Town Square. Finally meeting up, with a chill in our bones, we sat down to warm drinks and a warm dinner at Magasin. Kevin recommended a Danish dish to me and Morgan got her meat she’d been searching for in the form of a burger. After describing what comfort food was the night before to Kevin and giving the example and ingredients in English I found myself eating a Danish meatloaf. Apparently, meatloaf and my English don’t translate the best to Danish. And this savory meatloaf was covered in beets, capers, raw onions, cheese, parsley, and apples sitting beside lettuce on a plate smeared with egg yolk. Before leaving Morgan picked up a rhubarb pie for Anaya and I a bottle of white wine for Kevin.  That night we indulged in the rhubarb pie and grapes and Danish chocolate we had picked up on the way home.

Morgan and I the first night out at CBS's Bar

Our second night in Copenhagen became out first night out as Morgan and I met up with USC friend Kate Ikehara who is studying in Copenhagen. We got off the metro at Frederiksberg and joined Kate at the Copenhagen Business School’s (CBS’s) school bar. Set amongst beautiful, modern classrooms was a dj and a full out bar flocked with students. Morgan and I took full advantage of the 10 shots for 100 kroners deal before dancing amongst classrooms and meeting some students going to different clubs. We settled on Zen off the Norreport metro stop and fell in love with this club. We danced in the dj booth, on platforms, on a runway-like area, and obviously on the dance floor in this club until five in the morning. Finally making our way home we collapsed.

Danish Open Faced Sandwiches

Sleeping in until the early afternoon we had to hurry to make out way to Kongens Nytorv because USC friend Brittany Jacobson had arrived! We picked up some lunch at a local grocery store and I got to try three open faced half sandwiches: (1) roast beef, lettuce, pickles, cheese, and wasabi, (2) hardboiled eggs, bacon, tomato, and lettuce, and (3) salami, raw eggs, a vegetable I can’t remember, and lettuce.

Royal Cafe near the Town Square

After some trouble trying to meet up we settled in at the Royal Café near the Town Square. Royal Café is a very posh, elaborate café with art ascending up the walls, chandeliers hanging from the ceilings, and knick knacks and books placed everywhere. Large trees sat atop the tables and we felt as if we were in Alice in Wonderland. Before this Morgan and I had walked into a church wondering why it said “THIS IS NOT A CHURCH” on a sign outside, when it clearly was a church. An abandoned church, it now housed artwork but we decided to spend our time on something we appreciated more. Splitting up, Morgan went home to nap as I showed Brittany New Haven and we walked along the water at sunset.

Snuck a picture of a scene from My Fair Lady

As Brittany made her way back to Danhostel, Morgan and I met up and got ready for My Fair Lady and picked up a quick dinner, a burger and a kebab sandwich respectively. We made it to the theater a bit late but were seated in some seats on the side. Luckily, since in Danish, Morgan was able to tell me a short synopsis about this musical on the way there. My Fair Lady was a play adopted to a movie and later to a musical that told the story of a poor English girl who wanted to take voice lessons to become more respectable. The story follows her journey and includes a romantic twist as she is courted but falls in love instead with her teacher. The production could not have been done better with the rotating scene, the magnificent costumes, and in a language that made the play even more beautiful. The dancing added a bit of edge, especially being in Europe, and I felt as if I was watching a scene from Moulin Rouge. Eliza, the main character, was suspended in air which was part of one of many jokes. Unfortunately we could not enjoy all the comedic touches, but I learned plays do not need words. It is true action speaks louder than words. And this play was magical and romantic. Being left with butterflies, the three of us made our way out of the production and wandered around the theater to realize it was just as stunning as the room we entered resembled a ballroom.

Brittany, Lisa, and Morgan out in King's Square

That night we enjoyed a second dinner, after picking up a bite by our home, at a restaurant called Mama Rosa. The waiter most definitely was hostile even as we sat down but we laughed it off as we met some Spaniards who not knowing we spoke Spanish, made fun of Brittany’s torn map. The three of us then split 10 shots and before Morgan went home to get some sleep, she watched Brittany and I as we shared 10 shots, each of different alcohol. From what I can remember now there was 1 Bailey’s, 1 licorice tasting, 1 raspberry vodka, 1 watermelon vodka, 1 tequila, 1 rum, and 4 I now can’t think of as there were too many flavors, not that we were too drunk. That night we wandered around King’s Square’s bars, but not were quite our cup of tea.

Danish changing of the guards

Our final morning and day in Copenhagen we met up in Kogens Nytorv again after grabbing Danish scones which are surprisingly light and fluffy like a dinner roll, just dotted with mini chocolate chips to add a hint of sweetness. This morning was beautiful and sunny and having looked at the weather report we saved the outdoor activities for this day. We saw a procession leaving the Royal Palacse after the Danish changing of the guards in front of which drummers beat their drums. I’ve now seen the changing of the guards in a city before I have seen it in London.

Morgan and Lisa in front of the Royal Palaces

Brittany and I laughed as we passed a Danish hot dog stand, having had grabbed a snack the night before, and the three of us made our way towards the Royal Palaces or the four palaces of Amalienborg. On the way we passed some beautiful antique buildings that alike Malta were beautiful in their destruction. Trees and vines crept up the walls of buildings sitting in gated courtyards I found myself wandering into. And finally at the Royal Palaces we walked through some gates and found ourself open to four very expansive buildings surrounding a circle. The guard let us taking pictures with him but we had to stand a step away as he marched and stopped for a picture.

Lisa, Morgan, and Brittany in front of the River and Black Diamond Opera House

We then headed towards the river and past a dried out fountain in which I found dried up metal coins amongst the old dirt and rubble. Walking over the fountain we stood on top and looked at the view on this bright and sunny day. As we walked again towards the Black Diamond we found ourselves stopping to sit and enjoy this moment. I tapped my shoes on the floating ice and soon was infected by how fun it was and it took all my energy to stop before we continued back through the circle to a church.

Although I do not know the name of the church, I got to see my first inside of a church since there was no entrance fee or service going on. Putting on my glasses I found myself craning my neck to look up at the high ceiling on which were painted glorified frescoes. Looking around the church I also saw an organ which although not large still impressed me for even existing now a day.

Lisa, Morgan, and Brittany in front of the Little Mermaid statue

Next we found ourselves in a park on the way to the Little Mermaid statue which took all of our breaths away. Canals ran throughout the hills of grass that stood outside the military base’s walls. And on the land above the base stood a windmill and cannons of all sizes. We followed the winding path and after grabbing hot chocolate and a postcard waited amongst the many tourists to see the Little Mermaid. You had to tip toe across ice to get to the statue for a photo opportunity, whether you were a male putting your hand on Ariel’s breast, or an old woman who stood there for far too long. Passing many more statues we made our way back along the river and up along the canal in New Haven where the three of us split up: Morgan to the Glyptotek Museum and Brittany and I to Christania, a commune near the Christianshavn metro stop.

Lisa and Brittany on a bridge in front of a Danish Canal

Walking by canals shimmering with light and lined with boats, we walked across bridges and by tempting bakeries and soon were faced with a carriage of musicians and people riding horses coming down the street towards us. It was Danish Halloween and the people were singing the Danish version of “The Saints Go Marching In.” We pet the horses and asked a guy at the atm we stopped at how to get to Christania, upon which he directed us and instructed us to go to café with the word Moon in it’s name.

Snuck a picture in Christania of some of the art and mosaic

Christania is more unique than any place you will ever come across. It is within Denmark, a country of the EU, but it itself is not part of the EU, is not part of Denmark, and it has no laws. It looks like shantytowns would as people stand amongst fires in trash cans, buildings look run down, and the people are dressed as if they don’t care. No pictures allowed but we snuck a few. Art fills this community from graffiti to paintings on buildings to carved trees to mosaics in trees and amongst the stone walls. Tents where people sold weed and hash, grown there although being a military base food cannot be grown, lined the streets we walked along to get to the river. People sat amongst a levy looking out over the water as the sun began to lower and we made our way to grab hot drinks from what we thought was a café, but was much more. The drinks here are very cheap and sold in a smoke filled room that we had to quickly escape. We wanted to soak in the atmosphere of the outdoors anyways so we sat outside, drank our drinks, and continued to explore.

Morgan, Anaya, and Lisa with the Enchiladas

Grabbing the pastries we had eyed the entire trip Brittany and I indulged before riding the metro back to Kevin’s to make enchiladas for dinner. Morgan impressed me with her cooking skills which no one would expect from how picky an eater she herself is. She not only made enchiladas from scratch but she made the sauce from scratch and improvised without tasting a thing. That night I ate the best enchiladas I have ever eaten and they were made in less time than I’ve ever seen them be made in. The enchiladas were crunchy on the outside, had the right amount of sauce, cheese, and extra chicken on the outside, and were warm, gooey, and decadent on the inside. I probably ate too many as we finished it off with chocolate and white wine before Kevin surprised us and ran out to 7-11 to grab beers to enjoy with us.

Lisa, Kevin, and Morgan and our beers

Morgan having to do a presentation stayed in that night and babysat after enjoying some wine and the three of us gorging ourselves with Danish beer – Tuborg – and some Carlsberg. I have never drank so much beer in my life but thankfully the Mexican food and all the food from earlier that day did their job as I felt fine for going out to the meat packing area, the place we’d been looking for that Kevin recommended but which no one in Denmark knew of. In Danish it is called Kodbyen and we made it to his favorite bar: Karriere. The three of us danced until the bar closed and then made our way to Rust, another place Kevin had recommended just a few bars away. Getting late, the three of us shared a cab and called it a night.

In the morning, Morgan and I got some sleep and made our way to the airport. Just our luck Easy Jet decided to have on person working the desk and about 30+ people in line. We barely made our flight after cutting the check-in line, cutting the security line, running through the entire Copenhagen airport (and if you’ve been there you’d understand why we were as sweaty as we were on the plane), Morgan buying her brother a snow globe, and me wiping out in front of the passport check desk. We actually made it with 11 minutes to spare and ahead of 6 passengers, but who is counting. Copenhagen was a beautiful place with very kind people and it is a place I’d recommend to anyone looking for a nice experience.

Things I learned:

1.     Take advantage of Couch Surfers. I now know it is a company where people help people. Traveling isn’t as amazing as you think until you start and once you start you can’t stop. These people understand and they make your experience. It’s also the best way to soak up a culture.
2.     Couch Surfers tell you where to go and what to eat. Not being able to say no to someone can turn out well.
3.     Don’t say no to any foods until you try them.
4.     Just because you think it won’t be as cold as you think pack warm clothing. You’re not always going to be lucky that someone will lend you clothes.
5.     Although not everyone has to stay together, do as it will make traveling easier and safer. Otherwise, be generous and make sure the group helps the individual get home
6.     During the day it’s ok to split up and spend time seeing what you want to see rather than rushing everywhere. And it’s ok to go home early to nap by yourself, listen to your body.
7.     Enjoy the small moments. Sit down and let your feet dance on floating ice in the ocean.
8.     Travel at night and later in the afternoon. It’s amazing when you relax during, before, and after your trip. It’s funny that’s how simple it is to not get sick.
9.     Also, make sure to understand how to use the transit tickets whether you speak the language or not. And maps aren’t necessary, as we never got one, but not all countries may be as nice or easy to find your way around by asking locals. Use google maps at least to find metro stops!

Countries visited: 4